Tuesday, December 10, 2013

The Great Ocean Road

After spending several days in Melbourne, we had traveled to Warrnambool, Victoria on Saturday, November 16.  Sunday morning we woke up to absolutely gorgeous weather.  We went for a walk along the beach in Warrnambool before heading out on our drive of the day.  It felt awesome to get out and enjoy the warmth of the sun after so many days of rain and clouds.  

Aubrey out on the beach in Warrnambool

Carter on the steps down to the beach

What a glorious morning!

Sean and I grabbed some takeaway coffee and we started out on the Great Ocean Road.  The Great Ocean road is 151 miles (273 kilometers) and runs along the south eastern coast of Australia.  It was built between 1919 and 1932 by soldiers that had returned from WWI.  The road is the world's largest war memorial.  We planned to do it in one day since 151 miles seemed pretty manageable.  It turned out to be a very, very full day.


The Great Ocean Road is the gray road that runs directly along the coast from near Warrnambool to Torquay.

The start of the Great Ocean Road

The very first stop, at the Bay of Islands, was breathtaking.  The ocean water is this fabulous deep, dark blue with a hint of turquoise.  We were looking at either the Southern Ocean or the South Pacific Ocean, depending on whose opinion you go with.  (Some authorities say the Southern Ocean does not start until 60 degrees latitude, so much closer to Antarctica.)  I think that as a general rule Australia considers it is the Southern Ocean.  


Red pin is the Bay of Islands







As we drove along the scenic highway, we continued to stop at various limestone formations along the coast.  We even saw the London Bridge after it fell down.  



London Bridge as it looks today after its collapse

Looking to the right from the London Bridge lookout

Looking to the left from London Bridge lookout.  It is hard to see, but the Twelve Apostles are faintly visible in the distance.


It was already midday, so we stopped and had a picnic lunch in the quaint little town of Port Campbell.  


View from our picnic table


I have looked forward to seeing the Twelve Apostles ever since we had planned this trip.  The Twelve Apostles are offshore limestone stacks that remained standing after the rest of the cliffs eroded away over the years.  They were named the Twelve Apostles in 1922 even though there was only 9 of them.  One of them has since fallen, in 2005, due to erosion (they nicknamed that one Judas).  So, there are only 8 left at this time.  I know they are just some rocks sticking up in the ocean, but it was a magnificent site to see in person.



Red pin is the Twelve Apostles





The big pile of rubble in front is where the 9th apostle used to stand.



If you look into the distance at the coastline behind the kids, you can see how the landscape changes from steep limestone cliffs to rolling hills descending towards the ocean.  There was a sign near this lookout that explained that is due to a fault line existing there and the coast changes from being made up  from mainly limestone to sandstone.  Thus, this changes how the coastline is eroded by the wind and water. 


Not long after seeing the Twelve Apostles, the road curved more inland through the hinterland.  


Photo of the hinterland











We pulled off the Great Ocean Road to check out a lighthouse, the Cape Otway Lighthouse.  As we were driving on the small highway, we saw a bunch of cars pulled off to the side of the road and people walking around.  We were not sure what was going on at first, so we slowed down and looked around.  Then we realized was the big attraction was; there were tons of wild koalas in the eucalyptus trees along both sides of the road!  I cannot even tell you how excited we all were.  If there was one animal I wanted to see in the wild in Australia, it was definitely the koala.  For animals that sleep 18 to 22 hours a day, they were pretty active while we were there.  I am happy to say that everyone we saw was being very respectful and just taking photos of the koalas up in the trees.  







We even saw a baby koala in a pouch!!!
Closeup!

We had to take this photo to show how close we were to the mama koala and baby.  This was a major highlight of our trip.

One more baby photo before we move on.....

We then drove on towards the Otway lighthouse that we originally were going to see.  We only got as far as the gift shop though.  It was a little pricey to go see the lighthouse, plus it was getting to be mid afternoon and we still had quite a bit more driving to do.



We continued our drive towards Apollo Bay. 

Looking over the landscape towards Apollo Bay

We saw this sign frequently while driving on the Great Ocean Road.  Just a friendly reminder for all the tourists that drive the road.

The drive from Apollo Bay to Anglesea was fabulous, but it was extremely curvy as it directly followed the coastline and went up and down in elevation at the same time, so it pretty much turned the car into a roller coaster.  It was too much for Aubrey to take.  Even with motion sickness medicine, she felt extremely ill for this portion of the journey.  There was a lot of stop and go since we were trying to let her get out, walk around, and get some fresh air.  I felt so bad for her.  I have been motion sick so many times in my life; I know how miserable it is.  She finally did have to use the bag we bring along with us for these occasions, and then she finally felt much better for the last bit of the journey. 


Apollo Bay to Anglesea
   
Closeup view to show how curvy the road was

Some photos that Sean captured between Lorne and Aireys Inlet 




This little Superb Fairy Wren came and visited us on one of our stops.  He was so cute, but acted like he was dying to get inside our car.  So, we kept the doors and windows shut.  We did not need a bird loose in our car!!

A playground stop in Aireys Inlet to let the kids get some energy out (and to try to make Aubrey feel better).  Split Point lighthouse is on the hill in the top left of the photo.


Closer view of Split Point lighthouse

The last photo Sean took towards the end of the Great Ocean Road (near Torquay, Victoria)

As wonderful as the day had been, we were all happy to pull off the road and settle into Geelong for the night.  It was almost 7:00 pm and we were hungry and tired.  The portion of the trip when Aubrey had been feeling poorly had been very mentally exhausting, especially for her and I.   We grabbed a quick dinner and checked into our hotel.  We were all fast asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillows. 

The next day we began another leg of our trip.  We traveled along the Mornington Peninsula (south of Melbourne) towards Phillip Island where we saw more amazing and wondrous things.......


Looking at the trip ahead.......


Saturday, December 7, 2013

Melbourne

The Thoe family's time in Australia is really starting to get limited.  So, Sean and I decided to take another holiday to see more of this wonderful country before we leave it.  Sean travels often to Melbourne for work, but the kids and I had not been there yet.  Sean had to go to Melbourne for another work trip from November 10th to the 15th, so we planned a trip around that time.  The first part of the trip would allow the kids and I some time to enjoy Melbourne for part of the week while Sean was working.  Then, when his week was done, we were to take a week long road trip along the Great Ocean Road, spend some time on Phillip Island, and finally drive up the coast back to Sydney.




The whole plan started off with Sean driving down to Melbourne on Sunday, November 9th, so he would be there bright and early Monday morning to start the work week.  He said the drive took about 9 1/2 hours with very limited stops along the way.  I can guarantee that did not involve speeding since there are a LOT of average speed cameras on the highways between Sydney and Melbourne.  He got to Melbourne safe and sound and we have not since received one of those expensive little tickets in the mail, so all was good.

The only thing that did not go as planned was that I got a horrible earache on Saturday night before Sean left the next morning.  I am not aware of any clinics that are open on Sunday in Sydney, so I had to wait until Monday to see a doctor.  I was up for part of Sunday night with ear pain and felt pretty ill on Monday.  I was very thankful to see the doctor on Monday and get medicine.  I had to spend Monday and Tuesday recuperating, so I was glad that I had already done most of the packing for the trip and had sent the luggage down with Sean in the car.  Plus, Monday and Tuesday were nasty, wet days in Sydney.  They were good days to nap and rest up.  

On Wednesday, the kids and I flew down to Melbourne to meet up with Sean.  The weather was finally getting better in Sydney that day, but we flew right back into the cold rain in Melbourne.  I didn't think too much about that on Wednesday though.  I was just happy to be reunited with Sean and to begin our holiday.  I was also relieved to get off the plane in Melbourne with my eardrum intact.  (The doctor said I had a pretty nasty infection and my ear was not fully healed yet.)  The down side was that Aubrey had a little incident on the plane.  She started coughing right before the plane landed, it triggered her gag reflex, and she threw up.  Of course, we couldn't get up at that point of the flight, so we had to deal with it the best we could until the plane had landed and most of the passengers gotten off.  Ugh.  As I have said before, traveling with children is never boring!

We got into Melbourne a bit too early for Sean to pick us up as he was still working.  The kids and I hopped on the Skybus at the airport and it took us into the city to the Southern Cross Railway Station.  Sean was then off of work and could come meet us.  Even though it was cold, wet, and we were tired from traveling, it was great to see Sean and there was a Starbucks coffee there at the station.  I'm not saying that I necessarily prefer the taste of Starbucks coffee to Australian coffee, but it always is a treat because it is a taste I attribute to "home".  At this particular time it really hit the spot.  To top it all off, it was all decked out for Christmas complete with Christmas music playing.  Despite all the difficulties of the past few days,  all seemed right in the world at that moment as the family was reunited and I was sipping my caramel macchiato.




We couldn't stay at Starbucks all evening though.  We went back to the hotel that Sean stays at when he is working in Melbourne, the Stamford Plaza Hotel.  It is located on Collins Street right in the middle of downtown Melbourne.  It was a great location from which to explore the city.  On our first night we went to the James Squire Brewhouse at the Portland Hotel.  It was a rather pricey meal, especially when our 8 year old son wanted to order a steak.  It was a good night for a hearty meal though.  It carried on the good feeling we had since getting into Melbourne.  We then went back to the hotel and crashed.  The entire family was asleep by 9:00 that night.


Collins Street


Sean was also tired that night in Melbourne due to the plan he had worked out to park our car in the Melbourne CBD for the week.  He could have chosen the easy method of letting the car be valet parked at our hotel.  The problem with that was that it would have cost $47/day.  Instead, he had worked out a plan where he parked the car at a nearby shopping center overnight for $12.  However, it had to be taken out of the parking garage by 6:00 a.m. every morning.  He then drove it around the block and took it back to the same parking garage where he would park it for $15 for the day.  So, in order to save us $20/day in parking fees, he had been getting up at 5:30 every morning to walk a couple of blocks to the shopping center and move the car.  Then, we couldn't take the car back out of the garage until 3:00 p.m. every afternoon or we were going to have to pay an hourly rate of $8/hour from 6 a.m. to whenever we got the car.  It was so inconvenient, but it did save us $120 over the course of our time in Melbourne.  

Everyone woke up at the crack of dawn on Thursday after going to bed so early.  Well, I guess Sean had to get up early anyway, but at least he felt well rested at 5:30 a.m.  He got to spend a little time with us on that day.  We left the hotel once we were ready and began walking around in the Melbourne CBD.  Melbourne has a reputation for having a more "European" feel than Sydney does.  Part of the reason that Melbourne has gotten this reputation is because it has a huge art scene and is known for all of its public art displays.  The architecture was also very interesting.  The best way I can describe it is Victorian meets New Age.  We began the day by checking out the Visitor's Centre, Flinders Street Station, and Federation Square.



Federation Square

Australian Centre for the Moving Image in Federation Square with one of the newer trams in front of it.


Flinders Street Station

Clock tower of Flinders Street Station


Building across the street from Flinders Street Station; we particularly liked it since we had just visited Cascade Brewery the previous month.

It was a windy, cloudy day with rain on and off.  The temperature wasn't too bad; it was around 17 degrees Celsius (62 degrees Fahrenheit), but the wind was relentless.  I was getting really chilled just walking around.  We decided to catch a tram to Prahran (located near the hospital at which Sean works in Melbourne - Alfred Medical Center). 


The tram we took to Prahran


The kids and I on the tram

We walked around that area for a bit, grabbed lunch, and then caught a tram back into CBD.  There was more walking to be done though. We walked from the CBD, over the Yarra River, and into Southbank to check out Crown casino.  Crown casino was very impressive.  It definitely has the feel of a large Las Vegas casino. 


The bridge over the Yarra River


The kids posing in front of sculptures in Southbank along the Yarra River

Gayip is one of the 10 sculptures of "The Travelers" that symbolize different periods of Australian migration.  It depicts the Aboriginal symbol of a ceremonial meeting of different Aboriginal clans.


Somehow we did not get any photos of Crown Casino itself, but Sean took this awesome photo of a light display inside it.

By this point, I was absolutely frozen from being in the cold wind all day and my ear was beginning to ache again.  Sean needed to get some work done anyway. So, Sean went off to do some work while the kids and I went back to the hotel for a nap/downtime.  I guess I should say, I was the one that took the nap and the kids read and played on their devices.  Sean came back to the hotel at dinnertime and we went to eat at Wagamama Japanese Restaurant on Flinders Lane.  Melbourne is well known for having loads of cool restaurants/cafes down all these small lanes located between the main roads of the city.  Wagamama is an international chain restaurant, but this was the first time we had ever eaten at a Japanese restaurant that was more of a noodle bar than a steakhouse or sushi restaurant.  We all loved it!

Yum!!

Example of one of the lanes with restaurants/cafes all up and down it


We went over to the Collins Place shopping centre and picked up our car after dinner.  We drove down to St. Kilda along the shore and then back through South Melbourne.  There were some night markets going on in South Melbourne that were tempting to stop at.  It was getting pretty late for the kids though, so we just headed back to our hotel to call it a night.  


Collins Place all decorated for Christmas


Aubrey and Carter in front of the Christmas tree in Collins Place shopping centre


St. Kilda beach

We happened to be there just as the the Spirit of Tasmania was leaving Melbourne.  It is a ferry that travels overnight to Devonport, Tasmania.  Many people take it so that they do not have to fly to Tasmania.  Plus, you can also pay to have your vehicle on board to save on a car hire in Tasmania.  We had discussed doing this at one time, but in the end, we had decided just to fly down and rent a car when we toured Tassie.

Sean had to go into work on Friday morning and I slept late, until almost 9:00.  I was hoping for a lazy morning and I wasn't too anxious to get out walking on the streets again since it was predicted to be another chilly, wet day.  However, I could tell as soon as I opened my eyes that the kids had way too much energy to be stuck in a hotel room and they were dying to get out and get going.  The payoff for me to get out of the hotel room was to find some coffee.  We randomly stopped at a small cafe on Flinders Lane, Dukes Coffee Roasters.  Like most cafes on the lane, it was very small and low key.  I realized that I had gotten really lucky once I had taken one sip of my coffee.  It was the best coffee I have ever tasted.  It was caramelly, nutty, heavenly goodness in a cup.  It was exactly what I needed to get a bit of energy that morning.  

The kids and I decided to take the City Circle tram.  It was pretty crowded because it is a free tram.  I wanted to take it so that we could chill out while hopefully getting a nice tour of the city.  It took even longer than I was expecting and the kids were tired of it by the time we had circled the city.  I thought I should treat them to a nice lunch to make up for it.  So, we ended up at McDonalds.  Sean was able to come meet us for lunch and then hang out with us for the afternoon.  We picked up our walking tour from the previous day and continued to see more areas of the CBD.  My favorite was Hosier Ln with tons of graffiti street art.  I read some news articles about it afterwards that discussed some of the art pieces that have been here over the years and how the artwork is constantly being updated and changed.









Even the rubbish bins were decorated!

The kids loved the Myers department store Christmas windows at the Bourke Street Mall.  The Christmas windows displayed different scenes to tell the story of the Gingerbread Man.
  




We walked through Chinatown on the way back to the hotel.  It was very interesting.





Some other random photos we took around Melbourne.....


RMIT university building on the north side of the CBD

Love the Victorian clock towers!

The Spring umbrella art display at the Australia on Collins shopping centre

This statue is titled "The Three Business Men Who Brought Their Own Lunch; Batman, Swanston, and Hoddle" and is a gift from the small island nation of Nauru.  (Batman, Swanston, and Hoddle were the names of the three men that designed the layout of Melbourne CBD.)

They are a little freaky when looked at closely!!

It was then finally time that we could pick up the car without paying the expensive hourly rate.  We drove through South Melbourne back to St. Kilda for dinner because we had loved the area so much the previous evening.  We had some pizza at an interesting little Italian restaurant called Itali.co.  The weather still would not cooperate with us to get out and really enjoy St. Kilda though.  The wind along the coast was absolutely unreal; it felt like it was trying to beat us up!  We finally had to admit defeat and went back to the hotel.


We were driving around South Melbourne when we saw this building.  It was the scene of an Australian reality tv show, The Block.  Before the show, the building had been a worn out hotel.  During the show, five teams each remodeled a unit, which comprised one story of the building.  Then, whichever team sold their unit for most amount of profit over the reserve won the show.  This was Sean's favorite Aussie tv show, so he was very excited when we randomly found the building.


Another public art display in a shopping centre in St. Kilda

Cool mural in the same shopping centre

Saturday morning we were very ready to get out of the city of Melbourne.  The city has such a cool vibe, but I had not been feeling well the entire time we were there and the weather had been miserable.  The streets and lanes were very interesting with lots of graphic art and the architecture was absolutely amazing.  However, something about it was making me feel kind of claustrophobic.  I would probably have had a completely different attitude if it had been nice, sunny weather and I had been feeling better.

Even though we were anxious to get out of the city, we wanted to rest up a little before the next leg of our trip.  So, we slept in a bit and it took awhile to get put together and checked out of the hotel.  And, of course, I had to get coffee for Sean and myself at Duke Coffee Roasters again.  That took a little maneuvering since driving around on all those little streets and lanes in the city with trams running down the middle of the larger streets, is not the easiest thing in the world.  Sean finally had to do his first "hook" turn.  I'm not even sure where to begin to explain THAT.  When Sean took a drink of his coffee though, he understood perfectly why I had insisted on going to that particular place for coffee. :-)

Okay, I will explain a hook turn because I can't leave you hanging like that. First of all, remember that you  drive on the left side of the road here.  Ok, then, imagine you have to turn right from the far left lane across traffic on a red light.  Supposedly it has something to do with avoiding the trams running through the center of the streets.  However, I totally do not get it.  Luckily, Sean did understand it, and he successfully navigated us through the city.


An errand we had to do before leaving the city; post letters to Santa!!  We found this mail box walking around the city on the previous day and the kids were very excited to write letters to post to the big guy.

Carter was very willing to write a letter even though he "figured out" a few things about Santa last year.   

Anyway, we finally cleared the Melbourne city limits around 11:00 am.   At last, the weather was starting to clear up a little bit.  It was around the same temperature outside, but it had lost the bone chilling wind and there were more peeks from the sun through the clouds.  We all started to breathe a little easier once we got out of the chaos of the city.    

We drove about an hour and a half to Ballarat, Victoria, to visit Sovereign Hill gold mine.  Sovereign Hill is a town set in the 1850's, which was at the beginning of the gold rush in the Australian state of Victoria.  The kids had such a great time here and they talked about it for days afterwards.  It was one of their favorite activities during the entire holiday.  They watched $130,000 worth of gold heated up and poured out to make a real gold bar.  They dipped their own candles.  They even tried their hand at panning gold, but they both decided that it was much too hard of work for what you got out of it.  


The red pin is the town of Ballarat.



Some of the living quarters in the town

Sean and I jokingly wanted to yell, "The Red Coats are coming!  The Red Coats are coming!"

The Blacksmith

Carter posing in front of main street

There were some different nationalities represented in the town.  Some Americans came down for the gold rush.  There was also a Chinese section of the town.

The gold smelter pouring out the pure gold into a bar

Look who gets to hold the gold bar!  The smelter is watching Carter very closely though....

Learning how to pan for gold

Aubrey was feeling disheartened after not striking it rich.

The Chinese section of the town 

We found a tent with an American flag in it from the 1850's.

I'm in front of a cottage of one of the more "well to do" Soverign Hill inhabitants.  It had beautiful English style gardens all around it.

Carter and Aubrey dipping their candles

Here they are with the finished products!

We had a 2 hour drive after we left Sovereign Hill.  We were headed to Warrnambool to stop over for the night.  


Ballarat is in the top right hand corner of the map.  We drove on a lot of small roads to cut across to Warrambool.


We were driving on a road that was as much dirt as it was asphalt on the way to Warrnambool when we found the most beautiful lake, Lake Corangamite.  It is Australia's largest permanent saline lake.  In 1980 it had the saline content of seawater, but the lake levels have been dropping since then.  It is now estimated to have 4x the amount of saline as seawater.  The day was windy enough that we would have expected some ripples in the water.  Except there weren't any; the water was perfectly still.  This made the lake reflective like a very large mirror.  I don't think the photos really show what a magnificent sight it was.  It felt amazingly peaceful.  


A photo of Lake Corangamite that Sean took with his iPhone.

Our car on a road in the middle of nowhere


A photo I took with my iPhone


The kids and I running at a park by the ocean in Warrnambool at sunset

After being in rainy, cold, crowded Melbourne for several days (and Sydney with 
similar weather 2 days before that), getting to this gorgeous seaside town in pleasant weather felt like a breath of fresh air.  We stayed at the Best Western Olde Maritime Motel.  The kids really loved the room that we stayed in.  There were two twin beds on the main level and then winding stairs that went up to a loft.  Guess who stayed on the main level in the twin beds and who slept up in the awesome "treehouse"?  Sean and I talked about moving the twin beds together, but we slept apart for this one night of the trip.  


The winding steps up to the "treehouse" at the motel



Looking up at the "treehouse" from the main level; the kids loved it!!


On Sunday we began our drive on the Great Ocean Road.  However, that one will need a blogpost of its own.......